All eyes have been on SUQQU since photos of their revamped eyeshadow quads appeared on Instagram a couple months ago. There’s been lots of speculation and curiosity about the new Designing Colour Eyes, so hopefully this review helps clear some things up for inquiring minds. It’s a long read, so I made separate posts for the blush and two Extra Glow Lipsticks from the new Spring 2017 collection (here), the FOTDs I created with everything (coming soon).
On to the eyeshadows!
First, let’s start with some facts. SUQQU released 6 new Designing Colour Eyes all at once, all of which are inspired by flowers – very fitting for spring! Numbers #01-#05 are permanent quads, with #101 being limited edition.
These quads contain more product than the Blend Colour Eye Shadows do – you get 5.6g of product compared to 4.2g – so they are a better value in that respect. SUQQU has done away with the velvet pouch, which I personally find very practical but can see the argument being made that this means a slightly less luxe experience. The compact has changed too. The shadows are now flat in their pans rather than cabochon-style, and the bottom half of the palettes’ exteriors are metallic gold rather than being just black plastic.
SUQQU UK generously sent me two quads to try: #04 Ayanadeshiko, a taupey pink-red quad inspired by Dianthus flowers, and #05 Aoshizuku, a gold-blue-brown quad inspired by Hydrangeas. Here’s #04 Ayanadeshiko. On first glance it appears similar to Blend Colour Eye Shadow in Kaoribara, but I find Ayanadeshiko to be cooler and pinker.
And here is #05 Aoshizuku, which sort of gives me Kakitsubata vibes but is obviously very different. I always gravitate towards pink/reds over blues, but #05 Aoshizuku’s colour combination is very unique and I surprised myself by falling harder for this quad than I did for #04 Ayanadeshiko.
But let’s get on with what I’m sure you’re all here for: a review on the formula of the new quads and some thoughts on whether or not they stack up against the older Blend Colour Eye Shadows.
To get straight to the point, these newbies are quite different from the old quads. All four shades in each palette are shimmery rather than a mix of shimmer/matte shades, and are quite uniform in terms of (high) pigmentation and opacity. Here are swatches from both palettes, to illustrate my point:
The formulation of these shadows is an interesting call on SUQQU’s part, because while the increased pigmentation will surely appeal to and capture a wider international market, what does this mean for us loyalists who love SUQQU for its elegant sheers and complex shimmers?
Here’s my take on the matter: I miss the subtle elegance of their sheer shades, but I actually only miss them in theory. Because while I can choose to wear these new colours subtly with a light hand, I can also build depth faster and more easily than I could with most of the older quads. Since I personally prefer more defined eyes (i.e. darker looks rather than sheer washes) I’m quite happy with this change.
What I really miss in these new quads is the complex shimmers of SUQQU past, and the variation of finishes within each quad. That said, these quads are just the first instalment in a completely new line, so there’s a good chance that feedback and natural evolution will bring more textural diversity in subsequent releases. I’d love to see future quads include a matte/satin or complex “topcoat” shimmer for versatility.
Am I still a fan? Absolutely.
And that’s because the two traits that appealed to me most in past SUQQU shadows are still present in these new offerings.
1. SUQQU has retained the silky quality and blendability of their older shadows, and as a result the newbies (or the ones I tested, at least) are just as much of a joy to work with.
2. And this is what has secured my eternal loyalty…like their predecessors, the new shadows are designed to be layered, and they do so beautifully. I’ve always been enthralled by the idea that each SUQQU quad has its own set of “secret shades”, and I am beyond delighted to report that these new colours perform in the same way.
Here are the hidden colours of #04 Ayanadeshiko, a range of romantic dusty roses and mauves.
And here are the ones from #05 Aoshizuku, a most elegant array of taupes and khakis (who would have thought?)
To sum it all up, these quads are a win for me. These may not be as similar to the old versions as some of you were hoping, but they certainly qualify as excellent eyeshadows (silky textures, good pigmentation, beautiful colours) in their own right. The formula remains of a very high quality and despite the overall increase in pigmentation, still allows for layering/custom blending colours as per the older shadows. I can’t wait to see what SUQQU will be adding to this line in upcoming seasons!
Pricing & Availability: SUQQU Designing Colour Eyes (£46) eyeshadow quads are available in-store and online at Selfridges.
This post features products that were provided as press samples, however all opinions and observations are my own and not influenced by the brand or its PR team. This post contains affiliate links.